Navigating our way down the rivers
In the scheme of things, 500 miles isn’t that far. But it marks just over halfway to the Gulf of Mexico. It began last Thursday in St. Louis, breaking through an inch of freshly frozen ice at 0530. ‘Are we in over our heads? In our first mile we might get stuck in the ice.’ Frozen at the helm, the crew keeps silent and neglect to admit their fears. After half an hour Winnie makes her way into the main channel of the Mississippi and to the first of many locks.
We’re only still a full day’s drive from home, but this is our progress after six days. Already our concept of a few miles is that of travelers long ago: when rivers are unknown and oceans are vast–not easily traversed by 75mph highways and airplanes.
Kassie has quickly become a trusted helmsman, driving hours in the dark
Our days are slow, steady, and cold. The warmth of the south has not yet found us in this marina in Tennessee, though the sun has been a life-giver. Right now Dylan sips coffee, Kassie eats oatmeal and reads, and Kyle is biking 12 miles to get an oil filter (and 12 miles back). It’s in the 30s. Last week he rode to a lock just to check it out. It was in the teens and his jacket was starched by frozen sleet.
At times we resemble Dumb and Dumber riding a motorbike to Aspen (“someplace warm where the beer flows like wine”). A grand idea and a determined approach to get there, no matter it being the wrong season for it. The tow boat captains look down at us from their heated wheel houses in t-shirts, some giving respectful waves, others giving curt replies over the VHF as they push 1200 ft long barges down the river. We evade their lumbering loads in these narrow channels, the only pleasure craft they’ve seen in months.
Our new engine is purring at 7 knots, though our speed over land is anywhere from 3-9 knots due to currents. The Mississippi was kind to us, pushing us 203 miles over 25 hours and two days of motor sailing. We anchored looking at the banks of our home state of Missouri to the west, Illinois to the east, and Kentucky to the south. There, the Mississippi was joined by the Ohio River, where it took us a full day to make the 45 mile upstream jaunt to Paducah , Kentucky.
Waiting for a lock
Our river journey is not planned to be in the same rhythm as the rest of our oceanic voyage. We don’t take the dinghy to land and explore the local towns. Instead, we drop anchor, sleep, and wake up and get going well before sunrise.
The last two days were a continuous lucid dream across Kentucky Lakes and up the Tennessee River, making 205 miles in 41 unending hours, rising through two locks, and tying up Winnie at 10pm Monday night. Our 5 a.m. wakeup call was canceled today and we (Kassie and I) are taking the morning to relax and look at charts while we await Kyle and the oil filters.
Today, we will start our long downhill run to Mobile, Alabama via the Tenn-Tom Waterway. 460 miles remain. We don’t think we’ll be running through the night anymore, just steady progress during these short hours of winter daylight.
Cozy yet cold
Winnie Sails 
I am trying to follow your journey from K.C. to the Gulf and I am wondering why you did’nt let the current carry you down the Mississippi. Did you take the Tentom to see family? As I stated in another post I am trying to find the best route from the Gulf coast to K.C. Can you tell me of any links where I can find info about inland rivers and locations of locks and canals? I so envy your youth and persiverence in getting out there. Fair winds and following seas.
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Hey William, sorry for the slow response! We took the Tenn-Tom river since it cuts off a couple hundred miles, and is a little more scenic. More towns to pass by, as well as Kentucky and Pickwick Lakes. There are also almost no fuel stops south of Cairo, IL, so that is a factor to consider, depending on the range a boat has. The army corps of engineers has digital charts you can download, or you can order the paper versions from them. The river system is also a part of the “Great Loop”, so you can find a wealth of information by searching great loop cruising guide. Captainjohn.org has some good info on the rivers. The river is navigable all the way to KC, but from St Louis to KC on the Missouri, there are almost no marinas, or anywhere to store a boat. The only “marina” on the Missouri River between KC and STL is Cooper’s Landing, which has fuel, campsite, restaurant, dock, and boat ramp. Feel free to ask any questions you have, my email is kdh6bc@mail.umkc.edu if you want to chat more. Good luck! -Kyle
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Your lab has found and imported it.
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Hello! We met Pat and Pat Dwyer a few weeks ago in Little Harbour, Bahamas and they shared your story and blog with us! We, (our names are Ted and Jordan), just bought our first sailboat and have been living on board our boat for the last 3 months but will be taking it out of the water soon to get some work done on it. One day we want to do what you guys are doing! So we just wanted to say enjoy the journey! and hopefully very soon you will be in warmer weather! 🙂
-Ted and Jordan
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Ted and Jordan, that’s great! What’s the sailboat and the name?
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I love reading your log. You are having a great adventure! Safe travels.
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Sounds like you having lots of fun and adventure stay safe but have a wonderful time this is the trip of your life not many get this type of opportunity
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Dylan , I always knew you had a desire to explore ! Enjoy …but be careful ! Love then log !
Mrs. Wishon, your 5th grade teacher !
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Good luck if you want to lay over in cancun let me know.
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Thanks for the invite. We will let you know. We will be in Mexico the next month or so.
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Love getting to read your words, Dylan.
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row row row your boat …… gently down the ……. nice update Pharmisto !!! ( and crew )
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Love the updates! Safe travels!
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Thanks for the update! Hope the next leg goes smoothly and weather warms up!
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TAKE SOME PHHHOTOS YOOOOOO 😉
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